Author Topic: Attaching moldings with pegs  (Read 2311 times)

Jerome Bias

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Attaching moldings with pegs
« on: April 02, 2013, 11:19:48 PM »
I am working on a chest on with molding and panels attached with pegs.  I am having trouble with my pegging technique.   I am finding that when I drive in the peg the molding or panel don't close up nice and tight.  I am wondering what techniques others are using.

I am wondering if the pegs needs to be tapered or if the holes of the two pieces need to be of different sizes. 

 I know  that I can glue up the piece clamp it, let it dry, then add the pegs.  I don't like this option it just doesn't seem right and it defeats the purpose of using the pegs.

So what are some other techniques that people are using?

Thanks,

Jerome

zdillinger

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Re: Attaching moldings with pegs
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2013, 10:24:06 AM »
Honestly, I just use headless cut brads to attach my moldings.  But if I were to use pegs, I would make sure that I'm leaving enough space at both ends of the peg (i.e. drill the holes deep enough) to allow the glue squeeze-out a place to run. It is possible that the glue, which won't compress, is holding the molding out.

Wait, are you blind pegging the moldings or driving them in from the outside of the molding like a nail?

msiemsen

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Re: Attaching moldings with pegs
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2013, 10:40:58 AM »
Are you clamping and pegging or just pegging? I think you need to clamp the molding in place and peg it, then remove the clamp.
Mike Siemsen
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Jerome Bias

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Re: Attaching moldings with pegs
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2013, 02:55:33 PM »
I am using the peg as though they are nails.  I have been using the clamp peg remove clamp with mediocre success. I t fit at the site where the peg is driven in.

gvforster

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Re: Attaching moldings with pegs
« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2013, 07:47:27 PM »
Hi Jerome,

I'm guessing you're trying to replicate the "German" style of attaching the mouldings. I haven't tried this yet, but am quite interested in your results.

Being some 300 miles from my shop, I can't actually try anything, but here are some thoughts. When fastening 2 pcs together with screw, the "top" piece needs
a larger hole to allow the screw (peg) to pass thru without grabbing the "top"
piece, until the head of the screw comes in contact, other-wise the 2 pieces will
be difficult to draw together. Something along the same process should work with pegging a moulding; it will just take a little trial and error.


and I think clamping would only be needed to keep the 2 pcs from shifting when drilling the holes; not to aid in drawing the pcs together
« Last Edit: April 03, 2013, 07:51:20 PM by gvforster »

Jerome Bias

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Re: Attaching moldings with pegs
« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2013, 09:55:39 PM »
Yes, I am going German style. 
I am thinking of trying drilling the holes in  the molding a little larger than the matching holes in the case.  I am also going to use pegs that are slightly tapered. 

If my molding is 7/8" thick how long of a peg would you use?


Jack Plane

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Re: Attaching moldings with pegs
« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2013, 10:34:00 PM »
I would also recommend making pilot holes in both carcase and moulding with something like a tapered, square-section birdcage awl that actually scrapes a reasonably clean hole.

Have you considered using thorns? I posted about the use of thorns here which may be of some interest to you. http://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/2012/01/15/a-thorny-subject/
Regards, Jack.

pampine

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Re: Attaching moldings with pegs
« Reply #7 on: April 04, 2013, 08:56:10 PM »
Thorns? Amazing article, Jack, thanks.

Pam

Jerome Bias

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Re: Attaching moldings with pegs
« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2013, 10:33:30 PM »
Now that is a thorny situation.  I like the idea.  Sounds like it is time to look around for a new awl.