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91
Discuss plans and drawings. / Re: Goddard Townsend document chest
« Last post by macchips4 on February 23, 2019, 10:17:22 AM »
Talk to Al Breed...Look on his website!
92
Discuss plans and drawings. / Goddard Townsend document chest
« Last post by HSteier on February 22, 2019, 11:29:50 PM »
I once (I believe) saw plans for a Goddard Townsend document chest. It is a small block front chest with the typical (but small)
Goddard Townsend shells on the top. Is anyone familiar with this? If so where can I find these plans?


Thanks


Howard Steier
93
Period design and construction / Re: Wide tenons into crossgrain glue up
« Last post by Mark Maleski on February 18, 2019, 08:56:28 PM »
Thank you, Dennis, for confirming I’m on the right track.   I do have a cornice molding that I can use to cover the gap, and that’s what I will do.
94
Hi Mark,

Yes, you are correct. Float the top tenon and glue the bottom tenon. Make sure you cut a slot in the top tenon to allow for movement around the pin/peg. If there is a cornice molding under the top, this will hide the expansion space.

To avoid seeing this expansion space you can cut a rabbit along the top edge of the sides and a slot in the bottom outside edge of the top. This will act like a tongue & groove joint. I did this on many sides of a lowboy/highboy for customers.

Dennis Bork
Antiquity Period Designs
95
Period design and construction / Wide tenons into crossgrain glue up
« Last post by Mark Maleski on February 16, 2019, 01:04:25 PM »
I’m interested in knowing how others go about gluing up this joint.  I’m building a QA spice chest on stand, and the sides of the stand are 10.5” wide.  That’s an awfully wide cross grain glue up into the vertical grain of the legs, and I’m tempted to let the upper pin float to allow for future expansion (I will glue up in low humidity February). OTOH I suspect these were mostly just glued up all the way across in the period.  How do others handle this joint?
96
Period design and construction / Re: Dovetails on Drawer Dividers
« Last post by Mark Maleski on February 15, 2019, 03:10:26 PM »
I'm not sure I understand the question.  At first I thought you were asking whether the dividers should be blind (i.e., whether the dado or dovetail socket should extend all the way to the front of the carcase) or whether it was OK or not to have the dado/socket show on the front.  My answer to that would've been that either would be appropriate for a rural New England piece and because you're not copying any specific piece it's your choice.  But then you mentioned visibility only from the front, which makes me think you are considering having the end grain of the drawer divider show on the side of the carcase.  I've never seen that done before and it strikes me as a bad idea.  Do you have examples where you've seen that?


Also recommend you check out Jeff Headley's thread "An Outstanding Chest" under the Case Furniture sub-forum.  In post 18 of that thread, he shows a sliding dovetail socket for the drawer dividers.  He applies the dovetail to just the bottom of the socket, as this makes fitting the divider much easier.  You might consider his approach for your bureau.
97
Workshops and Classes / Re: Stanley 45-55 Class
« Last post by The Cabinetmaker on February 09, 2019, 10:09:27 AM »
As the school continues to up grade their web presents they now want everyone to go to; [/size]http://www.colonialhomestead.org/[/color][/size] from there you can scroll down to the class you want to take. Apparently attendees were being charged $12.00 by Evenbrite to sign up. Those that have already signed up will be contacted by Nate to refund the $12.00 (hey that's lunch at the Bakery) I have edited the original post to reflect these changes.
98
Hand Tools / Re: Stanley 112 scraper
« Last post by Mark Maleski on February 08, 2019, 04:43:39 PM »

I have an old English wooden toothing plane (Buck 242, made sometime between 1880 and 1930) with a Ward iron.  The teeth were done by hand before hardening.  There are 18 tpi, which I've always considered fairly fine.  Your post and the follow-up have me reconsidering that.  BTW, my Lie-Nielsen toothing blade, which is marketed solely for leveling, has 15 tpi and seems considerably more coarse.


I haven't seen replacements toothing blades for the 112...can you share a source (merely out of curiosity...I don't even have a 112!)
99
Workshops and Classes / Stanley 45-55 Class
« Last post by The Cabinetmaker on February 08, 2019, 04:09:03 PM »

 
I will be giving a class on using the Stanley 45-55 (Mutiplane (Or Sargent, Clifton, Sears etc.) This class will be 2 days (Friday March 29 and Saturday March 30). The price is $250.00 The Millersburg Hotel is 1 block away and has a special rate for the Artisans Guild. The location is across the street from Dan Rabers antique tool shop. If you don’t have both planes Dan believes he will be able to access up to three 55’s. We will also have the option to pair up those that don’t have both with someone that does. If you sign up a list of suggested tools to bring will be provided. Their is a limit of 8 students
 For more information see;
 https://www.facebook.com/ColonialHomesteadArtisansGuild/

 Or call:
 
Colonial Homestead Artisan’s Guild

 181 W. Jackson St.
 Millersburg, Ohio 44564
 (330) 473-5532

 
 
Below is a brief outline of what we will cover, time permitting;

 

Stanley 45
The 45 (1883-1962) & 55 (1897-1963) were called a Planning mill in a box (Stanley used that space savings advantage in their advertising). This one plane could replace minimum of 23 wooden planes and with special cutters you could order even more.
What are the advantages of the 45-55 over wooden molding planes. What are the advantages of wooden molding planes over the 45-55?
Most metal planes of the day came with a very basic set of instructions, just as today’s new cars come with a manual that shows you what the basics of that model but they don’t show you how to drive.
1. Students will learn the how the 45 and 55 cutters work and the best way to sharpen them.

 
2. We will spend a few hours sharping cutters, however don’t expect to sharpen them all.Please see the list of sharping supplies to bring.

 
3. The hows and whys of proper setup. From how hold you work to how to introduce the plane to the board.

 

 
Exercises for the 45

 
We will setup and cut the following:

 
 1. Set up the plane to cut a rebate.
 2. Beading stop and cut a Side Bead
 3. Center Bead
 4. Dado
 5. Grove
 6. Sash
 7. Using the slitting cutter.
 8. Fluting
 
 
Stanley 55

 
The Stanley 55 will do all that the 45 does, however with a total of fifty-five cutters and adjustable runners (skates) along with 2 fences that pivot so much more is possible. So much more that Stanley advertised it as “A PLANING MILL WITHIN ITSELF”

 
 Since we already have done the basic 8 operations on the 45 we will skip over those for the 55 and move on to the following;
 
 
 1. What Runners do I use and setting the adjustable runner along with the Auxiliary center bottom.
 2. How to properly set up the fences.
 3. Setting the Depth Gauges.

 
Now on to the fun stuff

 
 1. Grecian Ogee
 2. Roman Ogee
 3. Reverse Ogee
 4. Quarter Hollow (today this molding is called a Quarter Round)
 5. Quarter Round  (today this molding is called a Scotia)
 6. Chamfer either 40 for a right or 41 for a left
 7. Reeding
 
 
Complex molding
 
 
 Next we will combine 2 or more profiles to make a piece of larger molding that can be used as a small piece of Crown molding on a piece of furniture.
 
 
 1.Take the template and draw on the end of your board.
 2. Take the 1/4" beading cutter and run the bead in the appropriate place.
 3. Take the 1" hollow cutter and run it in the appropriate place.
 4. Take the 1" round cutter and run it in the appropriate place.
 5. Finish off with your Shoulder plane or small Rabbit plane.
 
 
Making custom cutters

 
 We will walk through the easy way of marking out an iron blank to make that custom profile.
 
 

 
100
Hand Tools / Re: Stanley 45 1st time user! SOS
« Last post by The Cabinetmaker on February 08, 2019, 03:43:48 PM »
Their is a small amount of play in the adjustment screw. Their should be a pin through the side of the casting that engages the slot cut into the side of that threaded portion. Make sure you loosen the blade clamping bolt (called the cutter bolt). Stanley started using the cardboard box on type 11's around 1910. The best way to date it is to do a type study. Try the web or "The Stanley Forty Five combination plane by David E. Heckel
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