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31
Items for Sale / Book for Sale
« Last post by The Cabinetmaker on June 19, 2019, 07:08:43 AM »
Books for Sale

 

 
I have the following books for sale, they are in very good condition. Paypal (friends and family), M.O. or check ok.  Email me at; the18thcenturycabinetmaker@gmail.com if your interested.

 

 
1. The Pennsylvania Spice Box Paneled Doors and Secret Drawers by Lee Ellen Griffith $200.00 plus $10.00 towards shipping

 
2. New London County Furniture 1640-1840 $25.00 plus $5.00 towards shipping and insurance
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Finishing / Re: Color match walnut
« Last post by rac50 on May 30, 2019, 08:49:44 AM »
Tom, The main problem with your repair is that the piece shown is not walnut. This is a depression era piece of furniture where the right vertical member (frame) is gum wood. The panel piece where you have placed your walnut strip is Birch plywood. In the 30s and 40s it was a common for manufacturers to use this combination to mimic walnut, mahogany and even cherry as the materials were less expensive. They frequently used the featured wood, in your case walnut on the top and drawer fronts and staining the sides to match using the woods mentioned. As to the color, Raw umber would be a good start.  Other colors you should have on hand is Van Dyke brown a deep blackish brown, black and a warmer orangish red tone such as burnt umber. these colors will help you achieve the color displayed. In wood finishing there really is never one color per se but thin layered colors. I have run a woodworking/ finishing shop for over 40 years and I have seen this type of furniture quite often. If you'd like further advice I[size=78%]'d be happy to help via email or phone. Good luck!  Ross[/size]
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See sapfm.org front page for more information on the upcoming time for nominations of Cartouche candidates.


Submissions are allowed from July 15-Sep 1



Ken Johnson
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Items for Sale / Genuine Honduran mahogany
« Last post by CaptNemo on May 09, 2019, 10:42:44 AM »
I have over 3,400 board-feet of genuine Honduran rough cut mahogany (swietenia macrophylla).

I bought it 30+ years ago while I was restoring antique and classic wooden boats. It was purchased from a family that was closing a lumber company they owned in Honduras. The mahogany has always been stored inside, it has not been rained on or outside in the sun. It would be sold in one lot and not parceled out. I have a spreadsheet with the dimensions as well as some pictures. This is a rare find, and $9.00 per board foot should be a fair price. I can be reached at jwy@mindspring.com or 813-244-7654.

It's located near Clarksville, Virginia which is about 10 miles North of the NC border.

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Finishing / Re: Color match walnut
« Last post by Mark Maleski on May 09, 2019, 08:17:14 AM »

Tom,


Well, my personal preference is for red hue on walnut, so if it were me I'd be thinking of how best to add that hue to the rest of the sides.  But that's not what you asked (plus it's either a vintage or antique piece, so maybe that's not the right choice)...


Assuming you have more of the kusmi, I'd lay some on a sample board and then experiment with layering green dye on top to see how it pulls back on the red hue. Green cancels out red. Even better if you can use some of the same walnut for the sample board.


Mark
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Finishing / Color match walnut
« Last post by Tom M on May 02, 2019, 04:20:16 PM »
I made some walnut strips to cover chipped veneer on my grandparent's bedroom set that I've had for 30 years (25 of which my wife has been asking me to do this!)  I also refinished the top after attempting to remove some burn marks. Some were in the shellac, but others where down into the very thick walnut veneer.

I had some gold dust shellac and some light color shellac that I used a year or so ago - both were still good after testing on glass, and I just mixed them for the top - looked great.  But I used it all up, and when I made the 1/4" thick walnut strips to put at the bottom of the sides, I mixed up some golden kusmi (?) I had.  Similar color to the top.  My problem is when I put the side strips against the side they are much redder than the very brown sides.  I really didn't notice this on the top as it is a different plane.

Does anyone have a suggestion for getting the reddish hue to be more brown not that I've built up the shellac finish?
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Discuss plans and drawings. / Re: Winchester Serpentine Chest Plans?
« Last post by Dale Ausherman on April 21, 2019, 06:44:53 PM »

It still seems to be there, at least for me.
Under Login on the home page left column.
Welcome Member (Be sure to be logged in)
Down the Member Only list to E-Interviews
E-Interviews drop down menu
- Winchester Chest with Jeff Headley


Seems to all be there. Let us know if you cannot find it, or what happens when you go through steps above.


Dale
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Discuss plans and drawings. / Re: Winchester Serpentine Chest Plans?
« Last post by CStanford on April 21, 2019, 04:34:04 PM »
I don't seem to be able to find the e-interview with Jeff (Winchester Chest), has this been moved or taken down altogether?
Thanks.
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Two summers ago the SAPFM Chesapeake Chapter conducted a multi-session molding plane working group (aka "plane-a-palooza") to teach, practice, and generally learn from one another how to use traditional molding planes as we build or restore period furniture.  Since that time, we've been discussing a follow-on class with Bess Naylor @ Olde Mill Cabinet Shop to help us all to build our abilities in this regard.  I'm pleased to let you know that Bess has added that class to her 2019 schedule and, in recognition of SAPFM's role in encouraging this class, is offering a discount to SAPFM members (email Bess for details). The class instructs us how to build an 18th century tea caddy that is more molding than flat-work, and will give attendees (and their hollows/rounds) a thorough workout.  To build the tea caddy that is the subject of this class, Bess will guide students through the use of various hollows & rounds to make the complex molding on the lid and the bracket feet.  In addition, the construction has several intricate joinery details, including a hidden drawer.

The class is offered on the following dates:
Aug 17-18, 2019
Oct 12-13, 2019

The class will be small by design, so wanted to get this early notice out to the molding plane working group participants.   If you are looking forward to this class to follow-up your practice with molding planes, don't hesitate to sign up, as the class is likely to fill up quickly.  If anyone is hesitating because you don't have a set of H&Rs, don't let that stop you...I'm confident we can work something out.

Sign up here: http://www.oldemill.com/seminars.html
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Items for Sale / Wooden screws for bench building
« Last post by ttalma on April 15, 2019, 09:41:00 AM »
I am making and selling wooden screws. I currently have Hard Maple screws in stock, but can make them out of any wood. I can also make them any size, or length.


All of the screws and nuts are 1 solid piece of maple, no glue-ups. They have a slot for an internal or external garter. They use a 45 degree tooth pitch, much stronger than the more common 60 degree.

[/size]The hub is 3.75" diameter by 4.5" long with a hole drilled for a 1" handle.
[/size]The Screw Diameter is 2.5", and is threaded at 2 threads per inch.
[/size]The total length is 23+ inches
[/size]There is an internal and external garter slot each are 1/4" wide.
[/size]The Nut is 8" x 3 3/4 x 1 1/2" (minimum) with the hole centered.
[/size]The handle is 12" long.
[/size]Price is $140.00 Shipped in the USA, (if you live outside of the US, check for a shipping quote).
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