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Finishing / Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Last post by ChuckH on December 18, 2019, 09:52:39 PM »
First of all, nice "Dog on it" shot of Abby. Just don't leave her alone in the shop with that hutch!
Speaking of shops, in one of your future posts you have to tell us about those benches I see in the background.

The hutch is progressing nicely. I'm very impressed with your scratch stock results. I've only recently gained enough confidence to use that process on one of my projects. I too hate routers. They scare the bejeebers out of me. I own two of them (inherited) and all the bits I suppose you would ever want, but I never use them.

That was me asking all the questions about your modelling software and Gene Landon. Thanks for the pictures of Gene's version of the hutch. I smiled when I saw how he finished his with wear marks around the doors and drawers. From what I understand he liked to his finish his projects so they looked like they were 100 years old. I remember reading that he would even scrub the bottoms of the foot on his cabriole legs with a brick to make them look like they had been dragged around. Don't know if that's true or just urban legend.
Much of the German furniture was painted like Gene's, but I can't imagine you have any intentions of painting yours.

I'm enjoying your build and appreciate your efforts in posting.

Finishing / Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Last post by Tom M on December 17, 2019, 09:23:14 PM »
Yes, I used butternut for the wedge, and I can see that a harder wood for the wedges would have been smart.

No update on the project for today as I've transitioned into last minute make a Christmas gift mode!

But I will address a couple items from earlier...

I have no formal CAD training, but am a mechanical engineer.  I've messed around in NX at work - mostly for design analysis. I asked for training for years but never got it.  We have dedicated designers so why train the engineer?  I purchased TurboCAD about 20 years ago and have upgraded three times.  It is a complicated program and I have a love/hate relationship with it. Most of the hate comes from no training, and poor documentation (there is a 2000+ page manual...).  I used my personal copy at work for years and would then send a STP file to my designer to start him off.  I would be willing to bet many of your cars/truck have evap canisters that started life in a TurboCAD model!

I actually had the puppy in the shop for an hour today.  She just laid on the floor a couple feet from the table saw chomping on some butternut plane shavings. She stuck around with the dust collector and table saw running!

Someone asked if Gene had defined if the tenons were wedged in his notes.  (That person never met Gene or took one of his classes!)  Gene's handouts were very light on info.  There might be a sketch with some dimensions, and tracings of moldings, but not much else.  You would get all the other knowledge from the classes he taught.

There was also a question about the original.  I think Gene based the design off an original walnut stepback upper cabinet he had (picture). I'm attaching a picture of Gene's in-process, and competed.

Finishing / Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Last post by macchips4 on December 17, 2019, 09:41:24 AM »
Did you use butternut for the wedges?
Finishing / Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Last post by Rglass on December 16, 2019, 06:46:18 PM »
I can’t believe this has not generated more posts. I know it takes a lot of time to document your progress with this level of detail and it is greatly appreciated.  The pictures tell a thousand words.  I read this very quickly over lunch without logging in so I did not see the pictures until I got home from work. I can imagine it was a very tedious process to chisel out the waste for the spoons.  Looks like it will be awesome once finished.  Good idea with the 90 degree brackets. I am also liking the character of the wormy wood. 
SAPFM members - this deserves your attention. POST!
Finishing / Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Last post by Tom M on December 16, 2019, 11:22:37 AM »
The upper case went together easily once I made some plywood 90° clamp blocks to align the dovetailed top to the sides.  Prior to making these I was having a difficult time keeping the top and sides square. At this stage the only glue joint is the dovetail at the top.  Later I will peg the shelves.

To complete the top, I needed to round-over the front edge of the upper shelf (block plane and files) then form the molding on the middle “spoon” shelf.  This detail for hanging spoons took a lot of work for a feature which will never be used for its intended purpose – but it looks so cool!

When I was modeling the cabinet in CAD, the spoon shelf caused me the most problems – mainly because it took a while to figure out how it was made.  Once I was able to figure it out, I came up with a way to model it (which was easy once understood).  Breaking it down into steps made the work straight forward, but a little time consuming.

I started by planing the fillet on the bottom of the shelf.  This was ¾” x 1/8”. I then used a black plane to round the bottom elliptical shape finishing with a shoulder plane. Next up was the router table with a ½” cove bit.  (I don’t really hate the router when table mounted.) I then used my block plane and files to round over the front edge.

To lay out the spacing for the “dovetail” cuts I used two dividers.  One set at 3/8” and one at 1 ½”. Because there is not much material left to pencil a visual cut line, I decided to make a little saw guide. This worked better than expected. There were 40 cuts to be made!  After sawing I chiseled out the waste, and then spent almost 2 hours paring and filing all the curving edges.To complete the shelves, I routed the 3/8” coves for the plate grooves.

Next up? The face frames get mortise and tenons.

It took FOUR DAYS to get a reply to my last post… Come on people!
Discuss topics not covered in other categories. / Re: 2019 American Period Furniture
« Last post by ChuckH on December 16, 2019, 10:04:46 AM »
And it's chocked full of excellent build articles. Thank you Bob, and all of the contributors.
Discuss topics not covered in other categories. / 2019 American Period Furniture
« Last post by Bob Lang on December 15, 2019, 12:41:15 PM »
The 2019 edition of the SAPFM annual journal is "in the mail". You can find details and view two videos related to this issue at Issues are sent directly from the printer and the time it takes to reach you can vary, and there isn't any way to track individual issues. If you were a member in good standing on October 31, you should receive your copy before January 1, 2020. If it isn't in your mailbox by then, send an email to

Both the journal and the Pins & Tales newsletter depend on SAPFM members to contribute content. My thanks to those who have stepped up and shared their knowledge and expertise. If you have any ideas for future content, get in touch with me to get the process underway -- it's easier than you think.
Bob LangEditor, American Period Furniture and Pins & Tales
Period design and construction / Re: Joinery for small drawer divider
« Last post by ChuckH on December 15, 2019, 11:05:51 AM »
Yes, the two drawers are very shallow; only 1-1/4" high. So you think the runner would be one piece wide enough to accommodate both drawers tenoned into the case. The vertical divider would be full depth and attached to the runner (with a couple of screws?) and simply extend out over the horizontal divider unattached.
That sounds like a much simpler solution than I had envisioned.


It looks like the top 2 drawers are very shallow. I would run the divider the height of the drawers and then from front to back. The divider can then be fastened to the runner that supports the inside 2 sides of the 2 drawers. Either this divider or the runner can be tennoned into the back board. I hope this makes sense.

Dennis Bork
Antiquity Period Designs

Finishing / Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Last post by Rglass on December 14, 2019, 09:53:02 PM »
I like the added detail of the bead at the back of the case.  Please continue!
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