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Period design and construction / Re: Dovetails on Drawer Dividers
« Last post by Mark Maleski on February 15, 2019, 03:10:26 PM »
I'm not sure I understand the question.  At first I thought you were asking whether the dividers should be blind (i.e., whether the dado or dovetail socket should extend all the way to the front of the carcase) or whether it was OK or not to have the dado/socket show on the front.  My answer to that would've been that either would be appropriate for a rural New England piece and because you're not copying any specific piece it's your choice.  But then you mentioned visibility only from the front, which makes me think you are considering having the end grain of the drawer divider show on the side of the carcase.  I've never seen that done before and it strikes me as a bad idea.  Do you have examples where you've seen that?


Also recommend you check out Jeff Headley's thread "An Outstanding Chest" under the Case Furniture sub-forum.  In post 18 of that thread, he shows a sliding dovetail socket for the drawer dividers.  He applies the dovetail to just the bottom of the socket, as this makes fitting the divider much easier.  You might consider his approach for your bureau.
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Workshops and Classes / Re: Stanley 45-55 Class
« Last post by The Cabinetmaker on February 09, 2019, 10:09:27 AM »
As the school continues to up grade their web presents they now want everyone to go to; [/size]http://www.colonialhomestead.org/[/color][/size] from there you can scroll down to the class you want to take. Apparently attendees were being charged $12.00 by Evenbrite to sign up. Those that have already signed up will be contacted by Nate to refund the $12.00 (hey that's lunch at the Bakery) I have edited the original post to reflect these changes.
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Hand Tools / Re: Stanley 112 scraper
« Last post by Mark Maleski on February 08, 2019, 04:43:39 PM »

I have an old English wooden toothing plane (Buck 242, made sometime between 1880 and 1930) with a Ward iron.  The teeth were done by hand before hardening.  There are 18 tpi, which I've always considered fairly fine.  Your post and the follow-up have me reconsidering that.  BTW, my Lie-Nielsen toothing blade, which is marketed solely for leveling, has 15 tpi and seems considerably more coarse.


I haven't seen replacements toothing blades for the 112...can you share a source (merely out of curiosity...I don't even have a 112!)
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Workshops and Classes / Stanley 45-55 Class
« Last post by The Cabinetmaker on February 08, 2019, 04:09:03 PM »

 
I will be giving a class on using the Stanley 45-55 (Mutiplane (Or Sargent, Clifton, Sears etc.) This class will be 2 days (Friday March 29 and Saturday March 30). The price is $250.00 The Millersburg Hotel is 1 block away and has a special rate for the Artisans Guild. The location is across the street from Dan Rabers antique tool shop. If you don’t have both planes Dan believes he will be able to access up to three 55’s. We will also have the option to pair up those that don’t have both with someone that does. If you sign up a list of suggested tools to bring will be provided. Their is a limit of 8 students
 For more information see;
 https://www.facebook.com/ColonialHomesteadArtisansGuild/

 Or call:
 
Colonial Homestead Artisan’s Guild

 181 W. Jackson St.
 Millersburg, Ohio 44564
 (330) 473-5532

 
 
Below is a brief outline of what we will cover, time permitting;

 

Stanley 45
The 45 (1883-1962) & 55 (1897-1963) were called a Planning mill in a box (Stanley used that space savings advantage in their advertising). This one plane could replace minimum of 23 wooden planes and with special cutters you could order even more.
What are the advantages of the 45-55 over wooden molding planes. What are the advantages of wooden molding planes over the 45-55?
Most metal planes of the day came with a very basic set of instructions, just as today’s new cars come with a manual that shows you what the basics of that model but they don’t show you how to drive.
1. Students will learn the how the 45 and 55 cutters work and the best way to sharpen them.

 
2. We will spend a few hours sharping cutters, however don’t expect to sharpen them all.Please see the list of sharping supplies to bring.

 
3. The hows and whys of proper setup. From how hold you work to how to introduce the plane to the board.

 

 
Exercises for the 45

 
We will setup and cut the following:

 
 1. Set up the plane to cut a rebate.
 2. Beading stop and cut a Side Bead
 3. Center Bead
 4. Dado
 5. Grove
 6. Sash
 7. Using the slitting cutter.
 8. Fluting
 
 
Stanley 55

 
The Stanley 55 will do all that the 45 does, however with a total of fifty-five cutters and adjustable runners (skates) along with 2 fences that pivot so much more is possible. So much more that Stanley advertised it as “A PLANING MILL WITHIN ITSELF”

 
 Since we already have done the basic 8 operations on the 45 we will skip over those for the 55 and move on to the following;
 
 
 1. What Runners do I use and setting the adjustable runner along with the Auxiliary center bottom.
 2. How to properly set up the fences.
 3. Setting the Depth Gauges.

 
Now on to the fun stuff

 
 1. Grecian Ogee
 2. Roman Ogee
 3. Reverse Ogee
 4. Quarter Hollow (today this molding is called a Quarter Round)
 5. Quarter Round  (today this molding is called a Scotia)
 6. Chamfer either 40 for a right or 41 for a left
 7. Reeding
 
 
Complex molding
 
 
 Next we will combine 2 or more profiles to make a piece of larger molding that can be used as a small piece of Crown molding on a piece of furniture.
 
 
 1.Take the template and draw on the end of your board.
 2. Take the 1/4" beading cutter and run the bead in the appropriate place.
 3. Take the 1" hollow cutter and run it in the appropriate place.
 4. Take the 1" round cutter and run it in the appropriate place.
 5. Finish off with your Shoulder plane or small Rabbit plane.
 
 
Making custom cutters

 
 We will walk through the easy way of marking out an iron blank to make that custom profile.
 
 

 
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Hand Tools / Re: Stanley 45 1st time user! SOS
« Last post by The Cabinetmaker on February 08, 2019, 03:43:48 PM »
Their is a small amount of play in the adjustment screw. Their should be a pin through the side of the casting that engages the slot cut into the side of that threaded portion. Make sure you loosen the blade clamping bolt (called the cutter bolt). Stanley started using the cardboard box on type 11's around 1910. The best way to date it is to do a type study. Try the web or "The Stanley Forty Five combination plane by David E. Heckel
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Hand Tools / Re: Stanley 112 scraper
« Last post by The Cabinetmaker on February 07, 2019, 07:31:22 PM »
I remember reading that for toothing planes the coarse blades were for leveling a surface whereas the finer ones were for veneer work.
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Chesapeake Chapter / Re: Chesapeake Chapter Spring 2019 Meeting
« Last post by Mark Maleski on February 04, 2019, 09:41:01 AM »
Here's a photo of David's work based on the Hadley chests from the Connecticut River Valley from about 1695-1725.  His demonstration will cover (but not necessarily be limited to) the carving for these chests.
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Chesapeake Chapter / Chesapeake Chapter Spring 2019 Meeting
« Last post by Mark Maleski on February 04, 2019, 09:33:12 AM »
Greetings SAPFM members!  We are pleased to announce the next meeting of the SAPFM Chesapeake Chapter: on Saturday, May 25th we will return to Olde Mill Cabinet Shop in York, PA for our spring meeting.  We'll open registration in April, so look for that follow-up post.  All SAPFM members are invited to attend, though if space becomes a constraint we may need to close the registration early. 

David Wilson will be our guest presenter for this event.  A graduate of North Bennett Street School's two-year cabinet and furniture making program, David set up a home and a store (Antick Furniture) in Lambertville, NJ where he makes and sells a
wide range of furniture inspired by 18th century designs; from painted rustic beds, dressing tables and shelves to elaborately carved gaming tables and intricately inlaid sideboards. For a better sense of David's work, you can view his online gallery at https://antickcabinet.com/gallery-beds/ and see more about his store at https://antickcabinet.com/.  For his demonstration, we've been discussing a focus on the highly stylized and abstracted flat chip carved technique done on the Hadley chest...but we'll have the opportunity to explore other styles as well.

We'd like everyone to please consider contributing to this meeting by: (a) providing a demonstration of a technique or build that would be of interest to the group (e.g., carving a trifid foot; turning a finial; inlaying a patere), and (b) bringing a completed item for show & tell (this need not be a major completed project...it can be a tool you've made, or practice pieces that illustrate a technique (inlay, carving, etc).  Please reply to this email with your ideas for demonstration and/or show & tell so that we can work it into our agenda.  Also, we have traditionally encouraged members to bring guests who may be interested in joining SAPFM (subject to space constraints), so please consider which of your woodworking friends would like to come along.
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Hand Tools / Stanley 112 scraper
« Last post by macchips4 on February 01, 2019, 08:00:43 PM »
      Kind of slow on the forum/site lately so I thought I would ask opinions......Using a Stanley 112 scraper plane with a Stanley toothing blade for preparing the surface for veneer...which blade to get.....22, 28 or 32 teeth?
     Any thoughts? I've been getting by, using part of a hack-saw blade, scraping by hand. 
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Period design and construction / Dovetails on Drawer Dividers
« Last post by emakepeace on January 31, 2019, 03:04:58 PM »
I am building a rural New England style cherry bureau that will have Chippendale features such as straight bracket feet and a carved shell on the upper middle drawer. Does anyone have an opinion about whether through dovetails on the end of the dividers are appropriate for the 1750 through1780 period? Should the dovetails be half blind so they are only visible from the front?
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