Oil Based v. Water Based Dye

[Rick Yochim]

Rob,

Very nice work.

So, did you have any issues when you misted the TM to raise the grain and when you applied the dye stain? From your photos, I doesn't look like you did.

Rick Yochim

[rchampagne]

Rick,
Thanks for looking.  It can be a little intimidating posting one's work on a site like this, with so many accomplished cabinetmakers. 

I used a wet rag to raise the grain.  Next time I think I'll use a brush, as it would best approximate the amount of water applied when brushing on the dye.  Other than that, no, there weren't any big issues with the dye.  I went over the piece with 400 grit sandpaper pretty lightly.  I found that the grain was raised a little, but it didn't take much work to smooth it out.  I have read that some folks don't bother to raise the grain, but simply "bury" it in the layers of shellac.  It seemed that if you had already sanded the piece pretty well, you might be able to skip the water step.  I had scraped most of the surfaces, and I found that these areas were a bit rougher after raising the grain. 

I did notice that the knees of the legs and the tops of the feet seem to look darker than the more vertical portions of the leg.  Presumably this is due to exposed end grain.  Is this something that can be avoided or mitigated, or is this just part of the deal? 
Thanks,
Rob

[R Bohn]

Rob-
I wouldn't be worried about showing work like that, it turned out pretty nice. I'd like to make a few comments on finishing (to make you think about the next project)
First, i never raise the grain with water. Water on bare wood is never a good idea. It's difficult to tell what's in the water and what kind of reactions you will have. Another thing is i seldom sand passed 120/150 grit. The more you sand, the less the stain will take. How smooth is smooth has been debated for a long time. early cabinet makers (before sand paper) had scrappers (glass, steel, etc.) that also had an affect on the stain. When you look at an old surface with a microscope you can often see the scratches left by the finishing tools. Another thing i'd like to mention is that after three coats of shellac (used as a sealer) and scuff sanding in between. I then continue the finishing by French Polishing. This is where the pores are filled and you get a chance to tone (age the piece). By adding a little pumis as you French polish, you can speed up the proccess. Then if the finish is too glossy, rub out with 4/0 steel wool, pumis, and for a lubricant, oil, water or even a little murphys oil soap. I then wait at least 2 weeks or more to wax, letting the shallac harden. sometimes waxing too soon will create a chemical reaction.
In the antique field, if it isn't the right color, finish, and texture (feel) it won't sell. I also think most woodworkers don't understand that as much time as it takes to learn the building end, it could take as long if not longer to learn the finishing end.
Again, nice work.
-R. Bohn

[Antiquity]

I've always used (for 23 years) distilled water to raise the grain and with no bad effects on the wood.  I've also experimented sanding with 120, 150, 180 and 220 and staining/dying after each grit and have had no difference in stain color.  Note - this works with the dyes that I use.  (The cabinet shop at CW sands with 220 grit only.)

I would suggest that you experiment with the stains/dyes that you use.

Dennis Bork
Antiquity Period Designs, Ltd.

[dkeller_nc]

"Do the more expensive  double ended aquarium lights work faster?"

George - Apologies for not answering your question - I only read through the rest of this thread today.  Generally speaking, aquarium lights that are designed for reef tanks do not include the standard UV shielding that are present in "consumer" metal halide lights available at home centers. 

Metal halide bulbs put out a massive amount of short-wave UV irradiation - they're very similar to a welding arc, and if you've ever looked at one of those from close range without proper eye protection, you know how badly it will burn your retinas.  Obviously, a lamp that has this kind of an output installed into a home environment has the potential to be quite dangerous, as well as fading the crap out of the carpet, drapes, flooring material, woodwork, and maybe even the dog's fur.

So... The ones sold at a home center have a fairly effective UV-absorptive coating on the bulb or the lens (depends on the manufacturer).  Aquarium metal halide lamps also have some UV shielding so as not to instantly burn the eyes of the would-be reef aquarist.  However, they do put out a great deal more UV irradiation than home center lights because the aquatic creatures in reef aquariums depend on it for thier health.  It's for that reason that should you not choose to use natural (and free) sunlight to darken wood, this is the type of lamp you'll want.  One caution - a static (non-moving) lamp may create undesired harsh shadows on a piece of furniture under moldings, behind legs, etc..., so you will want to rotate the piece or change the position of the lamp every few hours until you get the result you desire.