cockbeaded case construction

[Johnny D]

I'm doing my oxbow case, which is cockbeaded, cockbeading applied to the case.  My question is about thickness of case side and cockbead moulding.

Given data, 3/16 thick cockbead, 13/16 thick case side.  How deep would the rabbet for the cockbead be?

Should it be flush with the inside?

Thanks
JD

[Antiquity]

I make mine flush with the inside and 1/2 to 3/4" deep. The depth does not really matter.

Dennis Bork

[Jeff L Headley]

I know now is a bad time to say this but with most New England chests with cock beading on the case, the cock beading was not applied to the rails and stiles they were actually cut from the rails and stiles and the rails (blades) were set in the thickness of the bead to take care of the difference. There always seems to be a period exception though. We are building an eastern shore of Virginia corner cupboard at Marc Adams ( with some spaces still available) which the beading was part of the case but we are applying the bead during the class to help with ease of construction. I thought I would post this just to cause trouble.

[jim vojcek]

Jeff, are you saying that the cock beading is cut from the rails and stiles and then glued back on?  If that is true, why not just form the cock beading on the rails and stiles instead of cutting it off? 

Jim Vojcek

[Antiquity]

Jeff,

You just refreshed my memory.  Some cock beading I did as stated above.  Some I cut from the solid rails and sides of the chest, e.g., a block front bureau.  Some I cut from stock then glued them onto the sides and rails.  I believe it was done this way to hide the beautiful dovetails you just cut joining the rails to the sides.

Dennis Bork

[Jeff L Headley]

I might be confused about the question asked. Beading around the drawer but not part of the drawer but part the rails ( blades) and stiles(case sides) are usually part of the rail(blade) and not added but shaped out of the stile(case side) and rail ( blade ) on most period pieces, including most New England pieces. I am saying that the bead was not added originally but scraped out of the rail and side and then the rail was mitered to fit the bead of the stile. If my posting is different than the question asked then nevermind. Again my family always called it cogbeading although it is the same thing. Please don't confuse this posting with scratch or screw beading seen on many country or western (above the fall line) pieces.

[dkeller_nc]

Yet another variation that I've often seen is cockbeading cut from the solid in the rails (drawer blades), and applied cockbeading on the inside of the case side that matches.  One advantage of this method is that it's quite easy to cut cockbeading in a drawer blade before its installed in the chest, and it's a lot easier to miter the corners of the short pieces of cockbeading that will be applied on the inside of the case sides than it is to carve it into the case sides and get every intersection perfect.

[Johnny D]

Yeah, DK, that's how I'm doing this chest.  Applied bead on stiles, beads cut into blades.  I've never done cockbeading before, and have been using some pics on Al Breed's website of Sam Breed doing this on a blockfront to guide me.   
Let me approach my question this way:
How thick would case sides typically be for this type furniture (cockbeaded four drawer chest)?
How wide would cockbeading typically be?
How much would cockbead project?

Thanks

JD

[jim vojcek]

Thanks, Jeff & Dennis, I understand now. 
Jim Vojcek

[Jeff L Headley]

Each period technique adds to what we build today. There are so many to choose from. Use what you like and feel comfortable with. That is the fun part about period construction today. I think we all do that.
I would figure between a heavy 1/8" to a shy 3/16" and to project the same for the beading. I don't mean to be a prude.

[Antiquity]

I use a scratch stock to cut my bead.  I find it best to cut only one bead at a time on drawer blades.  If your cutter cuts both beads and your drawer blade is not perfectly even in thickness you will have an odd looking bead. The one bead cutter can be use for both drawer blades and case sides. 

Dennis Bork
Antiquity Period Designs, Ltd.

[dkeller_nc]

"How thick would case sides typically be for this type furniture (cockbeaded four drawer chest)?
How wide would cockbeading typically be?
How much would cockbead project?"

JD -

Hmm - I suspect you'd find existing pieces that are all over the map within a fairly narrowly defined range for those questions.  For example, the case side thickness would vary between an absolute minimum of 1/2" to perhaps an absolute maximum of 1", with all sizes in between.  The thickness would, of course, be somewhat dependent on the size of the piece.  Most often, I see case sides on "normal sized" furniture in the 5/8" to 7/8" range.

As to the size of cockbeading, again, it varies with the size of the piece and the original cabinetmaker's training and preferences.  I've seen cockbeading on originals that was a very diminutive 3/32nds, to as much as 5/16", so I would size it based on what looks right to you.  I'd start with 1/8" to 3/16" and go from there (as Jeff suggests).  Generally speaking, the cockbeading projects about the same as the overall width, so a 3/16" cockbead might project about 3/16" above the surface.

[klkirkman]

JD

I measured what is supposed to be a fairly careful reproduction of a Newport Block-and- Shell Secretary of mine , and the cockbead is almost exaclty half way between the 1/8 and 3/16 width range suggested by others. However, it does not project that full amount, it is about midway between being a half round , and a full round in depth.

Karl

[Antiquity]

If I make my beading 1/8" diameter/wide, then I make the depth half or 1/16".  To me this looks better.  If the depth is more you will have a half circle and then a flat.

Dennis Bork

[chobbs66]

Agreed, the cockbeading should project 1/2 the amount of the width.  This avoids the flat, like Dennis said.

Cal